According to our "leisure concierge," we've been blessed with beautiful weather. Unfortunately, for Cambodia in June, that means it's 90 degrees with 90 percent humidity. Still, when you don't have to go to work, you get used to it.

Almost universally, we have been greeted with impeccable hospitality and graciousness, not to mention a healthy amount of pleasant and not too overbearing national pride. It seems that every Cambodian with some facility with English is ready to recite his or her share of Khmer ancient history.

At a moment's notice they'll recount the various relocations of the Khmer capital from the 11th through 20th centuries, and are happy to tell you when and how Buddhism replaced Hinduism as the official state religion.

The food has been delicious and similar to the more familiar Thai and Chinese cuisines. Unique to the region, however, is a particularly oily and mild river fish from which they make something called "Amok Trei" stew. The stew hints of a minty green curry sauce, and the fish has the near consistency of chicken. It is served in a noni leaf cup, and is fantastic with an Angkor beer after a long day of temple climbing.

The beer, however, is not much better than Budweiser, but to hear the Cambodians describe it, you'd think Ninkasi, the goddess of beer, brewed it herself. Even so, any cold beer on these muggy tropical winters is a mercy.

Tomorrow we're off to Phuket, where I hope to hike a lot less, and nap a lot more.

Until then...